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DUNEDIN, New Zealand — While many visitors to New Zealand are likely to hit one or more of the country’s big cities — Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch — there’s another city they need to keep on their radar: Dunedin.
In many ways, Dunedin is quite distinct from other cities in New Zealand — and not just because of its architecture. Its pace is different, and in some ways, it feels like a midwestern city in the United States.
Dunedin’s name originates from the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh (Dùn Èideann), hence its nickname, Edinburgh of the South. It is the first planned city in the country.
Despite being overshadowed by other destinations in New Zealand, Dunedin should not be underestimated. Here are three ways to experience the city’s offerings.
Take a train ride
Dunedin is renowned for its well-preserved Victorian and Edwardian architecture. Nowhere is that more apparent than at the Dunedin Railway Station, an architectural gem with grand Flemish Renaissance style.
Architect “Gingerbread George” Troup designed the station, which opened in 1906. Today, it’s the hub of Dunedin Railways, formerly the Taieri Gorge Railway, which operates local tourist trains. The trains are the best way to experience the beauty of the area around Dunedin.
Go to church
Dunedin is home to two incredible churches: First Church of Otago, a prominent Presbyterian church, and St. Paul’s Cathedral, the main church of the Anglican Diocese of Dunedin. Both are easy walks from the Octagon, Dunedin’s city center.
First Church, built in a decorated Gothic style on Bell Hill, promontory once divided the heart of Dunedin. In 1868, Dr. Thomas Burns, Scottish poet Robert Burns’ brother, laid the foundation stone for the church, completed in 1873.
Construction of the modern St. Paul’s Cathedral began in 1913 and was consecrated by Bishop Samuel Tarratt Nevill on February 12, 1919. In December 1969, work began on a new chancel with a more modernist design, completed in July 1971.
See where the cold ones are made
While New Zealand is world-renowned for its wine, it is home to some fine beer. While it produces a full line of lagers and ales, Speight’s Brewery is perhaps best known for its Gold Medal Ale.
James Speight, Charles Greenslade and William Dawson established the brewery on Rattray Street in central Dunedin in 1876, making it New Zealand’s oldest continually operating brewer. Today, the Japanese-controlled holding company Lion owns Speight’s, and it is one of the best-selling beers in New Zealand.
The brewery led to a chain of Speight’s Ale House gastropubs across New Zealand.
Eat here, drink here
Bacchus in the heart of Dunedin opened in 1992 and is centrally located in the Octagon. The award-winning wine bar, named for the Roman god of agriculture, wine and fertility, serves food to match. Eating here will remove any questions about why it’s Dunedin’s longest-established restaurant.
For a drink downtown, consider the Dunedin Social Club. Aside from the great craft beer selection, its outdoor seating and view of the Octagon is the perfect way to cap a day out in Dunedin.
