Florence: City of churches, art and fine dining

FLORENCE, Italy — For a spell, it seemed like the climbing would never end. Step after step, I wound higher and higher inside the great cathedral.

Four hundred seventy or so steps higher, I had reached my destination and our reward – a magnificent view of the city from the roof of the Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, the highest building in town. It was worth the climb.

From an architectural standpoint, the city is home to dozens of brilliant structures. Around every corner is another building that baffles the imagination and, at least in my case, leaves the weary traveler awestruck. How is it people live in the city such as this and not walk around every day marveling at the buildings that rise above?

The crown jewel of the city is the Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore – a glorious cathedral that dwarfs most other buildings in this city of about 356,000. Construction of Il Duomo dates back to 1296 – you know, roughly 200 years before “Columbus sailed the ocean blue.”

What’s even more astonishing is how long it took to build Il Duomo. The grand structure wasn’t completed until 1436 – 140 years after construction began. Furthermore, the building’s façade, generally described as a “neo-gothic façade of white, red and green marble,” is relatively new. It wasn’t completed until 1887, when the church was a mere 591 years old.

Just for the record, when I visited the cathedral in November 2005, the building was 709 years old. I’m glad I had a chance to see it before it gets too old.

But there’s no point in simply enjoying the church from the outside. You can tour the inside of the grand building, and climbing to the top of the cathedral offers a stunning vista of the city in every direction. A bit of sage advice for anyone with a camera: Bring plenty of film or flash card space. You’re going to need it.

Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance, is home to countless churches and museums, enough to make one’s head spin in trying to figure out where to begin. It really doesn’t matter when you start, just pick a place and run with it.

Most churches are open to the public, even if for a small fee. But don’t fret over a Euro or two admission charge, it’s money well spent, and this is how churches afford to stay open to tourists.

In addition to Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore, it’s worth visiting (take notice of the dates when these churches were built; it’s mind-boggling):

Cenacolo di Ognissanti, which dates to the 13th century. This was the parish of the Vespucci family, including Amerigo (America’s namesake).

Basilica di San Lorenzo di Firenze, consecrated in 393 by Saint Ambrose of Milan. The current church, designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, and was the parish church of the once-powerful Medici family.

Santa Maria Novella, consecrated in 1094. In 1242, work to expand the church began.

[Editor’s Note: Admittedly, it would be nearly impossible to list every church in Florence that is worth seeing, not to mention how difficult it would be to actually visit each church. Certainly the four aforementioned churches offer a nice overview and can easily be seen in a day or two, or spread out over a longer period of time, depending on how long one plans on spending in Florence.]

Now, just as important as the churches of Florence is the art and culture of the city, and when it comes to museums, the Uffizi is sure to top any list, and well worth the admission fee.

Completed in 1581, this is the world’s premier art museum. It has exhibits from many of the world’s best-known artists, including Raphael, Michelangelo and, of course, Leonardo da Vinci. Though Leonardo is from the Tuscan town of Vinci, hence the da Vinci after his name, he is often associated with Florence. After all, it was here in 1503 Leonardo began painting the Mona Lisa.

In between viewing the sights, swing by the San Lorenzo street market and pick up a few authentic Italian souvenirs. Even if shopping isn’t in your blood, it’s worth a visit, if for nothing else to enjoy the atmosphere and scope out the hand-crafted goods for sale. The market is located near its namesake church, Basilica di San Lorenzo.

By now, you’ve seen many of the sights the city has to offer. But what about the food? After all, you’re in Italy. This isn’t the local Italian chain restaurant. This is the real deal: The Old Country. It doesn’t get any better than this, so don’t even try to convince me there is better food to be had anywhere else in the world.

Around just about every corner is some sidewalk café featuring a great atmosphere and unique meals. But, for the tourist, there’s two places that are must sees: Il Latini and Acqua Al 2.

At both restaurants, it’s a non-stop offering of some of the most delectable food ever served, and a place where good times prevail. They’re the kind of restaurants where camaraderie – even when things get a little rowdy after two or three bottles of wine – is as much a part of the dining experience as is the food. The best part: It seems like there is no end to the number of courses.

It kind of makes you wonder how that wanna-be Italian restaurant in America can get away with using the slogan, “When you’re here you’re family.” I’d rather visit my real Italian family. The rowdy table next to us in the basement of Acqua Al 2, that is.

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About Todd DeFeo 1647 Articles
Todd DeFeo loves to travel anywhere, anytime, taking pictures and notes. An award-winning reporter, Todd revels in the experience and the fact that every place has a story to tell. He is the owner of The DeFeo Groupe and also edits Express Telegraph and Railfanning.org.